Hidden Gems: Zaragoza is a Must-See
Without casting aspersions on travel guide writers there are two massive oversights in various Spanish editions: the
Colourful Basilica, Zaragoza
magnificent city of Zaragoza and its nearby satellite ‘ghost town’ of Belchite. While Spain’s weekend break meccas of Madrid, Barcelona, Sevilla, Granada and Valencia enjoy pages and pages of positive write-up, Zaragoza (Saragossa)– which boasts architectural splendours of its own, coupled with great food, shopping, transport hubs and an all-round good vibe – appears to be fobbed off with an “if you’re passing, Goya woz ‘ere” double-pager.
I arrived in the Aragonese capital – founded by the great emperor Caesar Augusta and coveted by more recent empire-builders such as Charlemagne and Napoleon – on Saturday with little prior knowledge, other than I don’t think I’ve ever stayed in a city with two Zs before and Nayim lobbed David Seaman from half-way to win Real Zaragoza the European Cup Winners’ Cup in 1995. By Monday it had delivered a superior weekend to its more illustrious Spanish city break rivals, from the spacious Delicias station which you arrive in, to the colourful basilica, friendly, relaxed atmosphere and the clearest Castilian I think I’ve ever heard. Zaragoza – a seat of learning – oozes class, style and sophistication.
Do travel handbook writers stop here, or do they just pass through on the way to Madrid from grotty old Barcelona? Lovers of Spanish history should flock here and take an afternoon out to visit another conspicuous absentee from the travel guides – Belchite.
Destroyed church, Belchite
Lying 47kms south east of Zaragoza on a minor road south it’s easy to see why Belchite only gets a short paragraph but keen students of the Spanish Civil War (1936-39) – or even history in general – should definitely make the effort to come here. The town was the scene of heavy fighting in 1937 and was more or less razed to the ground and left as it was as a memorial while the new town was constructed down the road. As far as ‘ghost towns’ go, it’s unequalled – in Europe, certainly. It’s not just one or two houses close to collapse, it’s a whole entire town about a kilometre across. You can follow the main roads, see the shell holes in church roofs and witness collapsed stairwells. It’s no wonder films such as Pan’s Labyrinth were shot here. But why is it not famous throughout Europe? I only heard of it by chance last year while flicking through channels – and I studied the Spanish Civil War!
All in all, this corner of Spain is well worth a weekend. Ryanair is the only UK airline to fly direct to Zaragoza(from Stansted). Furthermore, if you’re bringing your bike, the terrain is undulating and roads are quiet.
